Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Aquarium 101: Starting a Siphon for Water Changes and Acclimation

Starting a siphon to move water from one container to another is a basic function in aquarium-keeping. Among other random uses, we use it in water changes, emptying or filling an aquarium, acclimating new livestock, and making filters work correctly. Since it is something that we use so often – especially in a retail environment like That Fish Place, it can be one of those actions that we take for granted and just assume everyone knows how to do but everyone has to be taught before they know, right? So here are some tips and tricks to have you siphoning like a pro in no time.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by user Tomia

How it works

Before we discuss how to do it, it helps to know what is happening. A siphon uses a vacuum inside of the tubing to move liquid in a way the same as using a straw to drink. When you use a straw, you suck on the end to remove the air from the tube. As the air is removed, there is a vacuum inside of the straw and the liquid in the cup moves up to fill the space. If there is a hole or crack in the straw or if your mouth isn’t completely sealed around the end of the straw, it won’t work.

Instead of moving the water up a straw, a siphon uses gravity to move water from a container at a higher elevation down into a waiting lower-level bucket or other container. When a vacuum like the straw is created in the tubing, the water rushes in to fill it and gravity keeps it going into the lower container until both are even or the siphon is “broken” by allowing air to get into the tube (usually just by removing the higher end from the water). It is creating that vacuum that can be the tricky part for aquarists.

Method 1: By mouth
I’m going to get this one out of the way because it is the most common but also the least adviseable. Its easy, its quick, we’ve all done it…and most of us have ended up with a mouthful of aquarium water in the process at some point. This isn’t the safest method and is why every gas pump you use will have big “do not siphon by mouth” warnings on them. In this method, the higher end (End A for the rest of this blog and the left side of the graphic above) is put into the aquarium and the lower end (End B and the right side of the graphic) is held below the level of End A. You would then put your mouth over End B, suck on it like a straw under the water starts flowing and release it into the bucket before getting a mouthful of it. There is a risk of getting anything left in the tube in your mouth as well as anything in your aquarium water; DO NOT use this method if you have medicated or used any other chemicals in your aquarium!!

Method 2: Submersion
In this method, we start off with the air removed from the tube by completely submerging the tube in the aquarium first. Once all the air is out, plug both ends with your hand or a finger and remove End B from the water. Once End B is lower than End A and over your second container, let go of both ends. The tube would then empty into the bucket and start the siphon from the aquarium. Alternatively, you can also fill the tube with water first if you can’t fit it safely into the aquarium to submerge it; just hold the ends closed until you have them in place. This method tends to work better with slightly larger tubing (0.5” diameter or more) rather than thin airline tubing like those used for acclimation.

Method 3: Power-starting
Instead of drawing the air out through End B, this method forces it out from End A. If you have a powerhead or pump in the aquarium or a powerful output into the tank, you can use that to start the siphon. Hold End A up to this source and seal it as tightly as possibly with your hand until the water is coming out of the other end of the tubing. When you remove End A then (and get it in the water immediately without allowing any air in, if it is above the surface), you should have a good siphon going. Again, this tends to be more effective with larger-diameter tubing than the thin stuff. Some companies also make gravel vacuums that fasten directly to a faucet and use a similar method of starting the siphon “automatically”.

Method 4: Siphon “Starters”

Some gravel vacuums have starter bulbs built into them for this but if yours doesn’t, you can create your own. The built-in starter bulbs would act like your mouth and lungs in Method 1 by sucking the air out of the tube to start the siphon. For thin-diameter tubing like the airline tubing used for acclimation, you can use a syringe plunger like the ones that come with most test kits as a starter. With End A in the aquarium, put the tip of the depressed plunger into End B, then draw out the stopper. This sucks the air out of the tube and starts the siphon for you. While this one isn’t as effective for the bigger diameter tubing, you can try larger syringes, turkey basters, or irrigation bulbs from the health and first aid aisle at the drug store for this purpose.

The Breaking Point

To end your siphon, just take End A out of the water, raise End B higher than End A or allow air to get into the tube and it will be “broken”. Alternatively, if your siphon stops, check to see if any of those things have happened or if something is clogging up your tube. If you do notice that your gravel vacuum keeps getting clogged where the wider vacuum attaches to the more narrow tubing, just tilt it a bit more or tap it lightly and the heavier gravel should fall. If you are using your siphon to acclimate your new livestock, you can tie a loose knot in the end of the tubing or add a small valve to help control the flow once you’ve gotten your siphon started. If you have any questions or problems starting your siphon, or if you have a method that I haven’t mentioned, let us know!

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Sunday, 8 June 2014

Gold Fish Care Basics

Overview of Goldfish:

Common and fancy goldfish are Asian Carp, Carassius auratus. They Telescope Goldfish

have been bred in the Orient for over a thousand years, and in Europe for over a hundred years to provide all of the colors and shapes available to hobbyists today.

Goldfish are a temperate fish found in cool streams, lakes, and ponds throughout Asia and part of eastern Europe, though all the Veil Tail Goldfish

specimens found in the hobby today are captive bred. Goldfish can be easy to care for, however, they do require some care. Given proper care and a good, healthy environment, goldfish can sometimes live nearly 50 years!

Goldfish Equipment & Maintenance:

To keep a goldfish healthy, remember to provide them with plenty of clean, cool water.

Your goldfish's temperature should never rise above 74° Fahrenheit (about 23.5° Celsius), and ideally should remain between 65° and 68° F (18° and 20° C) so you will need a thermometer. Keeping a goldfish above 72° F (about 22.5° C) for Bubble Eye Goldfish

long periods of time will result in Oxygen deprivation, which can cause nerve damage, heart damage, and can seriously hamper the immune system, making them more susceptible to many diseases, from easily treatable Ick to nearly untreatable swim bladder infections.

Keep your goldfish in a fish tank no smaller than a 10 gallon (about 38 liter), and make sure that a minimum of 6 gallons (23 liters) of the space in that fish tank is dedicated to each goldfish (each goldfish should have 6-8 gallons or more (roughly 23-30 liters or more) space in the goldfish aquarium). A 10 gallon fish tank is really only suitable for one goldfish.

This will provide sufficient space for your goldfish, so he can remain healthy, and this will allow the aquarium to help you keep healthy goldfish.

Goldfish should never be kept in a fish bowl.

Perform your weekly 10-15% water changes, so that your goldfish always has clean water and so that any waste that is not processed by the aquarium filter is removed.

Your goldfish will need a filter to keep the water from becoming toxic, and you will need to keep the filter in Ryukin Goldfish

good condition. When selecting a filter, if you have fancy goldfish, make sure that the filter will not produce excessive current in your fish tank, and this will make it difficult for the fancy goldfish to swim.

Goldfish Food & Care:

Remember that your goldfish is an omnivorous (eats anything) scavenger, so provide him with a varied and high carbohydrate diet. Many goldfish foods are available on the market today, and most frozen fish foods are also appropriate, provided you do not feed meaty foods too often.

Goldfish have large appetites, but they also graze for food constantly. Don't let their 'mock hunger' and grousing around for food fool you into over feeding them. Your fish should be able to consume all the food you offer within two minutes of feeding. If there is food in the aquarium after this time has elapsed, this will contribute to poor water quality and make your goldfish more susceptible to disease.

You will only need to feed your goldfish once a day. If you feed more than once a day you will increase the waste your fish is producing and will also increase the risk of over feeding, so it becomes more important that you are performing your weekly 10-15% water changes and all necessary filter maintenance. Providing a proper diet will increase your goldfish's life expectancy and bolster their immune system.

Goldfish, like almost any fish, are aware that they are prey animals. In order to feel comfortable, they need to have lots of hiding places. Goldfish do not seem to be too particular about their cover, however, you do want to make sure that you do not use any sharp or roughdecorations that your goldfish may get hurt on, especially if you are keeping any fancy goldfish that have impaired vision.

Like most other fish, they are more comfortable and will come out more and be more active if you can provide them with 50-75% cover - this means you should make half to three fourths of your tank space hiding places. Providing sufficient cover will reduce stress and therefore improve your goldfish's immune system, reducing chance of disease.

Goldfish Companionship:

Goldfish can, like most fish, be kept with fish with similar care requirements and temperament. However, this very quickly limits you Fantail Goldfish

to other goldfish - fortunately, there are many different and interesting fancy goldfish to choose from.

When looking for a companion for your goldfish, remember to select goldfish with similar handicaps. If their disabilities are too different, it is very likely that some will out compete the others for food, and you can have a goldfish starve to death while another gets fat right before your eyes in your fish tank.

Finally:

Remember, goldfish are beautiful living creatures. It is the responsibility of the pet owner to care for their pet and provide a healthy environment. So give your goldfish space, clean, cool water, plenty of hiding places, and high-quality, high-carbohydrate foods and he should be a good companion for a long time.

"Until we found your common sense approach to fish care, we were submitting them to ongoing jeopardy. Shortly after reading your web site, we emptied our existing tanks, put most of the chemicals in storage, and started from scratch. So far, so good, as the fish seem to be reveling in the change. Your guidelines provided for a new aquarium set up are right on the mark. It got to the point we just knew the information we were getting locally was wrong! We just didn't have the right ones to move forward!
Thank you very much for your free information as it would easily be worth the price of any book. We never could find one this good! We can we see you are very committed to this hobby. We are very thankful that you have taken the time to help other beginners."

Mark Morrison, Saskatoon, Saskatchwan, Canada

August 7, 2004

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"Cool. Thanks for the advice, its good to find someone who will give you straight forward facts without trying to throw in a sales pitch with it, if you know what I mean, and I'm sure you do..."

Shane Eack

October 3, 1997

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Monday, 2 June 2014

10 Gallon Aquarium: Dimensions, Size, Setup Ideas, Kit Tips

Source: http://www.aquariumcarebasics.com/

A 10 gallon aquarium is a very common size and popular choice for the beginning aquarist. Most aquarium hobbyists setup a 10 gallon aquarium as a starter freshwater tropical fish tank. Other 10 gallon aquarium ideas include a freshwater shrimp tank for Amano Shrimp, Red Cherry Shrimp,Ghost Shrimp, or a Nerite Snail tank.

A note about Goldfish: A 10 gallon aquarium is not the best aquarium sizefor Goldfish. Keeping Goldfish in a small tank like a 10 gallon aquarium can lead to water quality issues very quickly and be harmful or even fatal to the fish. But since my children won two small Goldfish at a street fair, and in the moment I was pressed for physical space, I had to temporarily keep the two small Goldfish in a 10 gallon aquarium while room was made for a larger tank. Soon thereafter, the Goldfish were moved to a larger tank with more water capacity, so it all worked out. But just be aware that a 10 gallon aquarium is really not the best choice to keep Goldfish over the long term.

A 10 gallon aquarium kit is almost always on sale at the local fish store as well as at the chain stores, and are also always available online. The 10 gallon aquarium size makes it easy enough to setup, but because low water volume and limited surface area, a 10 gallon aquarium may be challenging for beginners to maintain and care for over the long run.

A 10 Gallon Aquarium Kit Can Be Good For Beginners

10 gallon aquarium has some advantages for beginners. A relatively inexpensive 10 gallon aquarium kit contains nearly everything needed to get a small tank up and running. And over time, as hobbyists graduate to larger tanks, the old 10 gallon aquarium setup can serve as an extra tank to temporarily keep fry or serve as a quarantine tank should fish become ill.

There are many 10 gallon aquarium starter kits on the market today. Some hobbyists feel that getting aquarium kit at the local fish store may be an advantage because they believe they may be getting greater access to shop keepers with aquarium knowledge. Other hobbyists feel that getting an aquarium kit at one of the bigger chains is better because they may be getting a better deal on price. And still others opt out of the brick and mortar option all together by shopping online and having it delivered. Regardless of where and how a hobbyist gets a kit, keep in mind that all kits are not the same and aquarium kit contents may vary by brand and price range.

The 10 Gallon Aquarium Kit Is Not Standard…So Shop Around

On the lower-end of the price range, a 10 gallon aquarium kit may include:

One glass 10 gallon glass aquarium;
One plastic tank cover with a socket for an incandescent light bulb;
3.One small plastic in-tank aquarium filter and some sample filter media;
A few feet of air hose;
Some aquarium gravel;
A small sample of fish food;
Samples of aquarium dechlorinator and/or water conditioner; and
An information booklet.

On the higher-end of the price range, a 10 gallon aquarium kit may include:

One glass 10 gallon glass aquarium;
One plastic aquarium hood and tank cover with a florescent light bulb;
One small HOB aquarium power filter with a sample filter cartridge;
One small 50 watt aquarium heater;
One small aquarium thermometer;
Some aquarium gravel;
One small fish net;
A small sample of fish food;
Samples of aquarium dechlorinator and/or water conditioner; and
An information booklet.

An important accessory that is generally not included in a starter kit is an aquarium stand. A filled 10 gallon aquarium weights about 111 pounds, so make sure the aquarium stand is sturdy and can handle the combined weight of the water and gravel. Tables and stools are not strong or sturdy enough as their legs that can be kicked out easily. The best bet is to invest in an aquarium stand made for the aquarium size being purchased.

With an aquarium kit it’s important to remember that a starter kit is just that…a place to start. In the end, aquarium hobbyists will need more than the accessories included in an aquarium kit to maintain a successful and healthy tank over the long run. So with buying kits, shop around and try to get the most value for your buck as possible. Along those lines, it may even be a better idea to go a la carte and purchase items separately to get upgraded accessories for a few dollars more than the total price of a kit.

FISH TANK MIRACLE CLEANER

Saturday, 31 May 2014

How to Take Care of Your Fish (Tanks)

Take Care of Your Fish (Tanks) Step 1.jpg

Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-Your-Fish-(Tanks)

Steps

1
Decide whether you want Tropical or Coldwater fish. Coldwater fish include goldfish and minnows. There are many types of tropical fish, from angelfish to corydoras catfish. Coldwater fish are usually a little more hardy, and will survive those first few mistakes, but they need more room.

Start off with inexpensive fish, even if you can afford expensive ones. Inexpensive ones are inexpensive because they are very successful in their natural environments or so comfortable in captivity that they even breed regularly and, in either case, do not die easily on their way to and in pet stores.
Do not start out with saltwater fish. They require techniques and understanding that are much more complex. Plus, the water you'll have to work with and that may leak is messy, slowly corrosive to metal, and conductive. If you believe you want a saltwater tank, get a medium sized tropical fish tank with some plants and see if you can keep that in perfect order first for a year or so.

2
Decide what kind and how many fish you want.
- Research before putting species together. Some fish are compatible, others aren't. One might speculate that fish would enjoy some activity in their lives, so don't get just one. (The fish need not be the same species; for some territorial fish, it is best that it isn't. An armored catfish can be a good "companion" for such a beast.)
- Make sure you can provide any specialized care the fish need. For example, different fish need different foods, and some fish require more frequent maintenance than others. Owning fish is a big responsibility.
- Some fish are perfectly happy with flakes and can be fed with an automatic feeder, which makes it possible to leave the tank unattended for a week or two (assuming the fish are small so the water doesn't need very frequent changing).
3
Get an appropriately sized tank. Look up the minimum tank size for each fish.
- For goldfish, buy a tank with 20 gallons for the first goldfish, and 10 gallons for each additional goldfish.
- For freshwater fish, forget about one gallon per inch of adult fish. would you keep a 50 inch fish in a 50 gallon tank?
- Bigger is better. Even if the fish looks small, it will thrive in a bigger tank.
4
Make sure you have all the proper equipment- filters, heaters (for tropical fish), water conditioner, test kit, etc.
5
Set up the tank and cycle it.
6
Put your fish in. Only add a few fish to start with, and slowly build up the population. Adding too many fish at once can overload your filtration system.
7
Perform partial water changes weekly. 20-30% is a good amount. To do a water change, get a gravel vacuum and siphon out any waste in the substrate. This will pull out water at the same time. Replace the water with water from your tap, but remember to treat it with a water conditioner.
8
Test the water regularly. Make sure you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and under 40 nitrate.
9
Feed your fish two or three times a day.
10
Monitor your fish. While they eat, sit and observe them. Check for anything strange: changing color, falling off fins, damaged tails, etc. Also, make sure all your fish are getting along.
11
Try not to stress out your fish. This includes putting your hand in the tank when you don't need to, touching them, or jumping near the tank.

Saturday, 24 May 2014

Peter's Fish Tank - Episode 1 - 1350 Gallon Tank Overview

Friday, 23 May 2014

How to set up a Saltwater Aquarium

Thursday, 22 May 2014

Aquarium Setup - Aquascape - Step by Step and Final Product - Live Planted Fish Tank

Sunday, 18 May 2014

Aquarium Fish - Tank Maintenance

Source: http://www.pethealth.com.au/Page/fish-tank-maintenance

Aquariums are not only for the home. Many businesses are now installing aquariums in their waiting rooms. The lazy, unhurried and fluid motions of fish relax waiting clients and are far more absorbing than the dog-eared and coffee stained lifestyle magazines that have been collecting dust for the last decade.

However, a green algae-contaminated tank with shabby plants, slimy gravel and fish performing a realistic mime of the last moments of the Titanic is not an asset to any office or home.

The difference is the attention given to the tank. An aquarium is easy to maintain, with some duties needed daily and others weekly or monthly.

Daily Duties

The first daily duty is to check the temperature of the tank. High and low temperatures can be deadly but, in Queensland, tanks near windows often get too warm, especially on weekends when the office is vacant and the air conditioners are off.

For goldfish, the tank temperature should about 20 to 22 degrees centigrade and for tropical fish, it should range between 24 and 27 degrees centigrade. The ideal temperature depends more on the type of fish kept. Seek further advice from your aquarium supplier.

Examine the tank daily for sick or dead fish and remove them immediately with a soft net. A sick fish should be placed into a small quarantine tank to prevent further transmission of its condition. You can then organise treatment of this fish and the mother tank accordingly.

Check that the pump and air outlets are functioning and that proper air and water flow through the tank is occurring.

Weekly Duties

The condition of the water is vital as fish in tanks have a small volume of water in which to swim when compared with their free-living counterparts.

Therefore, regular cleaning of the tank is a weekly task. You need to remove accumulated sediment from the plants and from the gravel surface. For this, use a siphon tube or an air-operated vacuum cleaner where air bubbles drive the water up a tube and then back to the tank again via a cloth filter.

The pH, ammonia and nitrite levels of the tank should also be checked weekly. Simple test kits are available for this purpose.

The pH of the water should be between 6.5 - 7.5 for most aquaria. Correcting the pH of a tank usually requires expert assistance but regular water changes will help and, sometimes, chemical buffers are needed.

Ammonia and nitrite levels relate to the quantity of waste that is accumulating in the tank. Excess levels will occur with overcrowding, overfeeding, and if a dead fish or two are in the tank. A dirty filter or faulty pump also cause a rapid rise in waste products and conversely, a fully functioning filter is essential if you are trying to remove the waste efficiently. Partial water changes will help to solve this problem. Refer to the next section.

The plants in the aquarium also need weekly attention. Remove dead leaves and clean excess sediment from the leaves. Some healthy surface plants may require thinning-out each week and you may need to prune vigorously growing rooted plants. New plant runners may need imbedding in the gravel and some plants could need replanting if the fish have uprooted them.

Snails are a nuisance. Lure them to a wilting lettuce leaf that you have floated on the surface of the tank. Scooping the assembled greedy mob with a net is then easy. Chemicals are also available to eliminate snails

Monthly Duties

Water changes clean the tank and freshen the water and are usually necessary every three to four weeks. If an ammonia or nitrite problem is present, it may need to be done more often. Replace about 20 - 25% of the water by using a siphon hose. Vacuum the tank at the same time.

Domestic tap water needs to be conditioned to remove chlorine and other heavy metals before being added to the aquarium. You can condition water by aerating it as it comes from the tap, or by leaving it to age for a few days. The ageing process can be hastened by placing an air diffuser, attached to an aquarium pump, in the water. Chemical water conditioners are also available.

Cleaning the filter is usually a monthly task. However, the frequency varies depending on the health of the tank, the type of filter used and the number of fish and plants in the tank. Filters usually contain a healthy handful of bacteria which help to remove nitrite wastes. So, with some filters, you only need to gently rinse the filter under the tap to remove the rubbish and not the bacteria.

Lastly, each month scrape any accumulated algae from the front surface of the aquarium. Use a razor blade scraper or a pair of magnetic scouring pads.

For information on aquarium management, look for the book Community Fishes by Dick Mills. For the knowledge junkies, the book Aquariology - The Science of Fish Health Management is a detailed reference book. These books are available from your local pet shop.